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OUR FABRICS

VELVET

The velvets used to create our garments come from historical leading Italian textile brands such as “Duca Visconti di Modrone” and “Zegna”.

In particular, the garments in stock are made of “Supermaster” quality Velluto Duca Visconti di Modrone (this fabric has short, dense pile with a matte finish and is produced almost exclusively by the parent company for Sardinia – hence being called “Sardinian type”).

ORBACE

Fabric obtained from Sardinian sheep wool.
Resistant and waterproof, handmade in Sardinia.

Orbace is a coarse woollen fabric that is obtained using a specific process dating back to ancient times (this fabric was likely used for the clothing of Roman soldiers). The name is derived from the Sardinian orbaci which in turn comes from the Arabic al-bazz, cloth or canvas. The weave is plain and typically dark in colour. This is achieved using dyes. The particularity of Orbace is that, once the longer fibres have been selected from the carding process and have been woven, a fulling process is performed. The fulling process makes the fibres interlock and mat together, thus resulting in the felting of the material. It shrinks the material rendering it sturdy and waterproof. Orbace is traditionally produced in dark colours, mostly black or gray.

Fulling requires exercising great pressure on the fabric while soaked in hot soapy water in order to penetrate between each of the fibres and obtain a compact fabric. This action was traditionally performed by trampling the fabrics barefoot or by using special hammers (fulling stocks) set in motion by wheels using water power of nearby rivers or other waterways.

In Sardinia, entire villages were dedicated to the production of Orbace which was the most widely used for male traditional dress, not only for Orbace trousers but also for Sa Berritta, headgear shaped like a sack, the bodice and also Is Ragas, the black skirt.

LINEN

Linen is a fibre composite obtained from the bast of Linum usitatissimum (flax) and is composed of about 70% cellulose.

Like all bast fibres, linen has an average length of elementary fibres ranging from 20 to 30 mm, and its fineness is around 20 to 30 microns, the fibre has a polygonal cross section.

The number of fibres present in the bark of a single plant can vary from 20 to 50.
Linen has a tenacity of about 6-7 gram/denier and has a recovery rate of 12%. Linen fibres crease easily and do not stretch. Flax fibres are contained in the inner bark, commonly known as phloem. To extract the dried stems, they must be left to soak for a few days in water basins. A faster method involves subjecting the stems to water vapour or special bacteria: the substances that bind the fibres together decompose and dissolve, thereby releasing the fibres. This process is called Retting.

The stems are then left to dry, before being subjected to braking by means of hammers, operated mechanically or by hand, which crush and grind the woody part. The next step is scutching, which removes any woody debris and separates the fibres. The raw flax is then heckled to separate the long fibres from the short and broken fibres, also called the tow. This overall process is called dressing.

As it is quite a rigid fibre, the garments take on a wrinkled look, which is one of the main distinguishing features.

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